The rules governing Mountaineering on the major Nepalese peaks require a minimum of six months advance application to the Ministry of Tourism, a royalty of US$10,000 to US$50,000 depending on the elevation of the peak, and endorsement from the Governmen or the national club of the country organizing the expedition. There are 87 peaks opened for the foreign expeditions and another 33 peaks open for joint Nepali-foreign expeditions. Some peaks, such as Mt Everest, are booked many years in advance, while others remain untouched for several seasons.
Further information is usually available through alpine clubs in your own country. Even the most budget-conscious expedition under these regulations would cost at least US$20,000 this amount covering salaries, insurance and equipment for Sherpas and a liaison officer, peak fees and other compulsory expenses. If you want an inexpensive climb in Nepal, it is far more reasonable to set your sights on one of the trekking peaks. Eight of the world's 14 peaks over (8000m) are in Nepal. Those outside Nepal are K2 (8611m), Nanga Parbat (8125m) Gasherbrum I (8068m), Gasherbrum II (8035m) and Broad Peak (8047m) in Pakistan, and Shisha Pangma (8013m) in Tibet, just north of the Nepal-Tibet border. The following sections summaries the important early climbs on Nepal's 8000m peaks. For a comprehensive reference on these mountains, climbs and an exhaustive bibliography of books about the Himalaya, we recommend Sivalaya, by Louis Baume. Elizabeth Hawley kindly provided the up-to-date statistics on the number of ascents and deaths. Miss Hawley has lived in Nepal since the 1950s and, in addition to her duties running Sir Edmund Hillary's Himalayan Trust, has maintained an exhaustive record with details of every mountaineering expedition that has climbed in Nepal.
Expedition Rules and Regulations
The Royalty and the size of the Expedition Team: More than one team may be permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by a separate route each in one season.
A Royalty of US$50,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of seven members. The team may include 5 more members provided it pays extra US$ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted three months visa. Additional, US$ 20,000 will have to be paid by the team willing to scale Mt. Everest by normal south - East Ridge route.
In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 7 members for the minimum, and 5 more members for the additional royalty.
The team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest will have to pay US$ 10,000 if it intends to change the accent route. It will have to pay additional US$ 20, 000, if it intends to change the ascent route to normal south East Ridge route
For peaks other than Mt. Everest, the team will have to pay an additional 25% of the royalty in US$ to change the ascent route.
Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. The Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of the garbage from Nepal.